Washing and caring
Types of fabric and how to care for them
The following guidelines are based on my own experiences and judgement. If you are ever not sure, just test wash a section of the fabric first. Washing machines can vary, fabrics can vary, water hardness, detergent and I’m sure lots of other things can give varying results so see this as suggestions, not rules.
Cotton Lawn
Prewash – I do as I like to have fresh smelling fabric to sew with. As the thread count on cotton lawn tends to be high, you probably could get away without prewashing.
Garment washing – 40 degrees, 4 rinses, 1200 spin
Drying – air dry on clothes horse or on a hanger
Ironing – cotton setting so pretty hot with lots of steam and maybe an extra spray of water from my spray bottle if there are any persistent wrinkles (the added water helps to relax the fibres)
What’s normal? In my experience, cotton lawn doesn’t usually shrink
Double gauze
Prewash – The two very fine delicate layers that make double gauze are commonly a looser weave and therefore can fray more than normal. I would prewash and finish off the cut edges (usually with an overlocker) to prevent excessive fraying during the washing cycle.
Garment washing – 40 degrees, 4 rinses, 1200 spin
Drying – air dry on clothes horse
Ironing – cotton setting with plenty steam
What’s normal? May shrink a little due to the looser weave and I’ve found they often get softer and softer with washing
Viscose/rayon (or linen mixes)
Prewash – If I’m being good, 30 degrees on a lower spin (like 800). If I’m being lazy, in with my normal washing.
Garment washing – 40 degrees, 4 rinses, 1200 spin (It’s probably best to wash at a cooler temperature but I have to admit to forgetting sometimes and bunging it in with a normal load and its fine)
Drying – air dry for sure!
Ironing – maybe a bit cooler than a cotton setting, bit of steam but usually the heat on its own is fine
What’s normal? I often find that when you first take them out and the fabrics are still wet, they can almost feel a bit stiff or crispy. I’ve been worried in the past, but as soon as they are dry and ironed the floatyness comes back and all is fine!
Linen
Prewash – yes at 30 degrees. Linen will shrink sometimes up to 10%
Garment washing – 30 degrees, 4 rinses, 1200 spin
Drying – I would personally air dry
Ironing – not iron, plenty of steam and an extra spritz from the water bottle
What’s normal? The weave can sometimes become a little bit denser, might feel stiff when it's wet but will relax once it's dry and ironed.
Jersey/sweatshirting
Prewash – YES YES YES! Please don’t skip this with jersey fabric especially. It will shrink. If its viscose or a mix, 30 degrees is better, but I have to admit, I push it to 40 most of the time so it can be added to my normal weekly washes.
Garment washing – 30/40 degrees, 4 rinses, 1200 spin
Drying – tumble dry or dry flat after prewashing depending on how you want to dry it once its a garment. Tumble drying can reduce the life and body of your fabric fairly quickly if dried in this way on a regular basis.
Ironing – warm/hot iron with steam. Ironing will also help it to relax out.
What’s normal? Between 10-15% shrinkage can be common. I’ve found that sometimes fabric can decrease in length but increase in width. Often patterns recommend more fabric that is needed but if you are concerned or want to add length to a garment then get more.
Denim
Prewash – on the whole yes – remember to unfold it fully and you could put it in a laundry bag to help keep the dye within the fabric although I’ve personally never done this
Garment washing – 40 degrees, 4 rinses, 1200 spin – make sure you turn it inside out
Drying – air dry
Ironing – hot iron with lots of steam
What’s normal? Denim will fade and wear – to what extent will vary and from reading around its usually down the how the initial dying process has taken place as this can affect how will the dye takes to the fabric. The uncertain thing is you don’t really know until you wash it.
Denim will usually shrink a bit as well but if you are making a looser garment like the Tilly and the Buttons Cleo dunagree dress for example that is a bit looser anyway, you could consider not prewashing, and then the wear that occurs on the denim will be more even and consistent, picking out feature of the garment like the pocket edges for example
Wools
I’m talking more about coating type wools here.
Prewash – For me, generally not. Some people will roll it up in a damp towel and then leave to dry, I’ve also heard of tumble drying it with a damp dish cloth to kind of steam it. You could consider dry cleaning it, but from my experience of dry cleaning shop bought wool coats, that process seems to affect the integrity and colour vibrancy of fabric so I personally wouldn’t want to do that to a fabric before I’ve used it. Or if you were curious to see what would happen, you could dry clean a smaller section of the fabric.
Garment washing – For the Clare Coat I made, I don’t really intend on washing it exactly. Wool naturally repels odours and stains so I’ll just spot clean it and hang it out to air dry from time to time when I think it needs it.
Ironing – hot with steam. Using a pressing cloth will help minimise a sheen appearing on your fabric especially if it contains some synthetic fibres.
What’s normal? Wool does shrink when you actually wash it and submerge it in water and agitate it with soap – it will basically felt and got very tight/contracted/firm.
Silks and delicate
Prewash – I would hand wash delicate fabrics like silk, lace or fine embroidered fabrics.
Garment washing – hand wash in luke warm water with mild soap like SOAK
Drying – air dry
Ironing – will depend on the fibre content but cool to warm generally
What’s normal? From my experience silks don’t usually tend to shrink. Some embroidered fabrics might, it depends on what they are made from really.